Tuesday, July 27, 2010

So Sabi

Culture shock - from a rooster sitting on my kitchen table to eating white rice, potatoes, and fish at EVERY meal, I can now officially say I´m experiencing Cape Verde. I moved in with my homestay family a week ago and needless to say, it´s been an adjustment. My family speaks no English, only Kriolu, which makes even small tasks difficult. For instance, upon my arrival at their home, which is also the village store, I attempted to help them re-stock with bags of rice, boxes of meat, and cases of drinks. My help turned into me silently carrying the boxes around the store looking for their home while trying to avoid getting in the way of my brothers and sisters. I then proceeded to ask my mother if I could take a bath using the only 2 words I knew related to the bathroom - banu y laba. My mother spent the next 15 minutes trying to explain the concept of a bucket bath. To say the least, it´s an experience that leaves me with soapy hair and sore legs.
I wake each morning around 4am to the sounds of multiple roosters. After I toss and turn for a couple of hours, my 6 year old nephew wakes me around 6am. I usually go for a jog before the heat descends on the village, attempting to burn off my diet of complete and utter starch. Because my family´s home is not fully enclosed, animals are always in abundance. While I´m eating some variation of white rice and fish, baby chicks are begging for food under the table, the family´s goats are waiting patiently outside the door, and the dog is sitting by my feet.
I´ve discovered my home is the hot spot and no matter the time of day, there is music playing, kids running here and there, and teenagers looking for something to do. I have become the source of entertainment on multiple occassions - laughing at my broken Kriolu and asking me if I know Beyonce, Jay Z, and Rihanna.
My mom asked me if America was hot, and I attempted to tell her that Cape Verde gives an entirely new meaning to the word hot. It´s a hot that stays with you, that drains all your energy, and leaves me dreaming of a fan. I attend language classes from 8am to 5pm, only to come home to my brain swimming in Kriolu and my family patiently trying to converse with me. I could not ask for a more gracious community and family. Everyone wants to teach me the funana, feed me, and talk with me. I anticipate fully integrating myself into the community and discovering what I can do for them. I am realizing that you must first live with the people, before you can do anything for the people.
I took my first bucket bath, I have a cold that I most likely received from my nephew, I washed all my clothes by hand, I attended my first real futbol game,and I attempt to sleep under a mosquito net while suffering from vivid dreams due to malaria pills. This is by far the most difficult, yet rewarding job I´ve ever had and it´s only week two. My village has no internet, but I´m going to try and keep my blog updated - we´ll see how it goes.
I tell everyone abuot my friends and family! I miss you!

XOXO

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Landed!

.06% of Americans serve in the Peace Corps. I’m not sure if I should be proud or scared of this fact. Time will tell. I am officially here (!) my home for the next two years, Cape Verde (pronounced Ver-d or Vur-d). After a brief orientation in Boston, followed by a 7-hour plane ride to Cape Verde, we were greeted by a crowd of veteran Peace Corps volunteers and staff members with cameras, signs and reassuring smiles. The first few days have been a blur of safety precautions, icebreakers, medical kits, interviews, language classes, more documents to sign, and oodles of acronyms. We are staying in the Madre Teresa dormitory in Praia, all 24 of us on one hall, sharing one bathroom -- I feel like I’ve reverted back to college. The bonding has begun: taking cold showers with little water pressure, sweating 24-7 with no air condition to escape the tropical heat, brushing our teeth with bottled water, eating rice and beans at least twice a day, learning how to effectively treat water, and attending informational sessions solely about diarrhea.

I wish I had time to tell you about everything; however, time is limited and Internet is slow so I will skip to my favorite day thus far. On Sunday night, we met the U.S. ambassador of Cape Verde and the Millennium Center director. This was followed by a night of traditional dancing (fanana in particular), food and much mingling, where we tried out our new Kriolu language skills. Dancing is by far the most effective icebreaker, forming bonds that immediately break language and culture barriers. At the end of the day, we are all people, whether we were born in Cape Verde or born in Texas. We all know how to move our bodies and most of us even like it, even if it’s only in front of a mirror in our underwear.

As for up and coming news -- on Wednesday, I move to Assomada and meet my host family! This is where I will live until mid-September. Multiple Kriolu cram sessions are in order so that I will be able to say at least a few words to my family when I arrive. Although Portuguese is the official language of Cape Verde, on a daily basis, everyone speaks Kriolu. Portuguese is only spoken, or written in formal settings and publications, such as the newspaper. In addition, only a small percentage of the population (~.05%) can write in Kriolu – they only know how to speak it. More to come on that end, very interesting nonetheless. I also found out that my role in Cape Verde is defined as “teacher trainer,” consisting of teaching classes at the university, evaluating new teachers, and supervising educational research. I will most likely be teaching in Praia (the capital) at the local university. This morning I went for a jog (not alone might I add) and watched the sun rise over the water, listening to the waves crash against the shore. I think I could get used to living in this city.

Entirely new world -- new culture, new place, new food, new people, new weather, new language. Living on $4 a day. Cape to the Verde, here I come.

Bon Dia!

XOXO.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Hold Me Tight

Roach motels. Tri-band phone. Shortwave radio. After scouring Redwood City for roach motels and interrogating the Verizon employee about the characteristics of a tri-band phone, I gave up on finding these "recommended" items. Hopefully they are not essential, especially the roach motels...

As I write this entry, I have traded my favorite tunes for Creole podcasts, savored my favorite southern foods, and attempted to slim down my most important possessions into two suitcases, no small feat might I add. After numerous "see you later's," packing and repacking, visiting the doctor for travel prescriptions, gathering necessary documents, and attempting to tie up various loose ends, I am ready.

By ready I only mean the to-do list is complete. Am I mentally and emotionally prepared for this trip? Is that even possible? Often, I want to jump on the plane this very moment. Thirty seconds later, I am gripping my childhood stuffed animal hoping for comfort. I am scared. I am excited. I am nervous. I feel like a kindergartner on the first day of school -- you envision your classroom, friends and teacher. You anticipate the arrival of school for what seems like an eternity (especially if you have an older sibling) and when the day finally arrives, you become anxious and not so sure of that big, outside world. You fear the worst and hope for the best.

Here's to hoping, anticipating and envisioning:
Thursday, July 15 -- Arrive in Boston for staging event
Friday, July 16 -- Meet instant friends, fellow PC volunteers
Saturdayish (12:30am), July 17 -- Leave for Cape Verde
Saturday, July 17 (9:30am or 6:30am EST) -- Arrive in Praia, capital of CV
July 17 - July 21 -- Brief orientation, including vaccinations
July 21 -- Move in with homestay family for remainder of 9 week training


Now is the time for the polar bear plunge, 2 days and counting.

Saturday, July 3, 2010

The Big Kahuna

Why? People have continually asked me why -- why would I choose to venture across the world, away from everything familiar. It's an honest, daunting question that I have tried, and will continue to attempt to answer. My answer begins with Jackie, a young Belizean girl. Each time I visit Central America I am astounded and horrified, overjoyed and saddened by a simplistic happiness that is bound in daily struggle. After spending a week in the children's home reading, playing, listening, and snuggling, Jackie asked me to promise that I would come back. Without hesitation, I said yes. I said yes to a global, yet personal responsibility that overshadows comfortable career choices which nicely blanket my 401k.

I turn on a water faucet multiple times a day, expecting clean, temperature-regulated water. I visit the doctor if I am ill, expecting immediate relief. I turn on the air condition on a hot, summer day and avoid the heat in every way possible. I drive two minutes and visit a grocery store with an abundance of fresh, organic food. I shop online, with everything imaginable shipped overnight to my front door. I attend a university, surrounded by 24-7 access to knowledge, technology, culture and diverse opinion.

Jackie sleeps in a small house with 49 other children and adolescents. Jackie suffers from worms as a result of a lack of clean water. Jackie walks to school, rain or shine, heat and humidity. Jackie grows up holding on to her family, defined by the people who come in and out of the children's home, because these faces are dependable. Health care is nonexistent for Jackie -- it is defined by occasional visits from foreign doctors and medical volunteers. Crime goes unpunished and free, as legal matters are tied in the aftermath of a corrupt government. Dentistry is a luxury that only a few obtain, no regular cleanings and x-rays, no fillings for that aching tooth. Jackie unknowingly painted my picture of responsibility.

I am now equipped with an idealistic, yet educated passion that will carry me to Cape Verde. I envision education through discussion, exchange and partnerships that will meticulously redefine our world for the better. It begins with reciprocity of communication, ideas and development. Americans must relearn as well as rebuild a happiness that is currently lost in materialism, power and white picket fences. I must learn how to achieve without wanting, work without hurry, and appreciate without envy.

My decision to commit to Cape Verde for 2.5 years, as both teacher and student, is defined by an undaunted craving for prosperity -- an exchange of wealth including happiness, sustainability, equality and knowledge.

I invite you, my avid reader and fellow confidant, to begin this life-changing journey with me as my intrepid co-explorer of thought and conversation.

Seek. Enjoy. Taste. Question.